Friday, April 27. 2012
I've finally given up trying to be dairy- and gluten-free. It was easier when I could still eat dairy, but ever since I found out that I was lactose intolerant, my diet has been tougher to manage. It's also a bit difficult in France, at least here in the South, where gluten-free products are not as available and affordable. I know that I can and should make my own, but certain gluten-free grains have not arrived either, nor has time and energy been on my side. One can only take brown/white rice, grain or flour, for so long before the taste and texture gets old. I have always loved bread, and I really missed it. And being dairy-free in a dairy-loving country is difficult enough. With no medical evidence of gluten intolerance (just subjective observations), I decided to leak a bit back into the diet. I can't tell if it has or will cause any negative side effects, but so far, it's been okay. The one best thing since re-introducing wheat is the French baguette. So tender, chewy, and slightly salty. If only I could slather some butter on it, then I would be in heaven!! But alas...at least I could enjoy a baguette again. Aside from the baguette has been sandwiches. I've always missed the variety and complexities of sandwiches in the US. The closest here is probably Subway (blashphemy?!), but one can only tolerate Subway for so long (the flavours are still not the same). In the end, I got around to making my own, and the one sandwich that repeatedly called was a fried egg sandwich. I've always loved how the runny yolk soaks into the butter-toasted bread, with the cheese providing the added creaminess and the ham the necessary saltiness. I remember a scene from a movie where the chef was making a fried egg sandwich, and I could not help but salivate at the moment he cut the sandwich in half and the yolk spilled all over the sandwich. If only I could recreate that. My biggest obstacle was the lack of a non-stick pan. Tried as I have, I've never successfully fried a beautiful egg in a stainless steel pan, and more often than not, the yolk gets broken in the process of scraping the egg off the pan. Then there are the missing butter and cheese. Still, I plainly toasted some bread, fried an egg (finishing cooking the top part in the grill/broiler to avoid flipping), and obtained the desired result of yolk-soaking-bread. I also tried adding mayonnaise, but I think the best combination thus far is an egg with minced tomatoes and mashed avocado. Having said that, I just ran into a recipe for a BLT fried egg sandwich (from Adam Sandler's movie "Spanglish"), and it looked just mouth-wateringly delicious. But regardless of the combination, it's that yolk on bread that counts. Give it a go if it's something that you love and haven't had in a while. If you've never had it, then it's a must try. You certainly won't regret it. =)
Tuesday, April 10. 2012
Yet another one of my mother's dishes came to mind recently. I was looking for a change in my salad/vegetable options and thought of my mom's potato salad. It has always been one of her well-received dishes at pot-lucks, and it seemed quite appropriate for the weather---light yet filling (from the potatoes). We typically serve it in a hot dog bun and garnish it with freshly minced cucumber, ham, and pineapple; but it can be eaten as is and served for breakfast, lunch, snack, or even appetizer. The ham is very crucial in achieving the correct salty flavour as salt just doesn't seem sufficiently flavoured. Cucumbers bring the necessary lightness. And pineapples are ideal for the extra sweet punch, but they can be omitted if difficult to obtain. All ingredients are ideally finely diced for the flavours to meld together correctly.
My Mom's Potato Salad All ingredient amounts can be adjusted depending on desired ending flavour/texture.
- 3 3-inch long potatoes*
- 2 medium carrots
- 2 eggs
- 4-inch segment of cucumber
- 3 slices of honey ham (or any sweet-flavoured ham)
- 1 tbsp crushed pineapples*
- 3-4 tbsp mayonnaise*
- 2 tsp brown sugar (honey can be used instead, but the flavour will be noticeably different)
- Salt
- Peel potatoes and carrots. Cutting carrots in half can help equilibrate the cooking time. Wash the shells of raw eggs.
- Place all in a pot filled with enough water to cover the ingredients and bring to a simmer. Slightly cover and maintain simmer for 15 minutes---remove eggs and leave to cool by side. Continue simmering for another 15 minutes or until potatoes and carrots yield easily to a knife or fork. Rinse quickly with cold water.
- Finely mince the potatoes, carrots, and eggs. Place in a bowl. Finely mince the ham and cucumber as well. Add pineapples.
- Add mayonnaise and brown sugar. Mix. Season to taste. (If necessary, as the actual vegetable sizes can vary, the mayonnaise, sugar, and salt can be adjusted to taste.) Refrigerate for several hours, if not overnight, for flavours to amalgamate.
- Serve: Top the salad with extra minced ham, cucumber, and pineapple. Can be served with any type of bread or as is.
*Potatoes: a more starchy variety might be preferable. They will be more likely to fall apart, which enhances the flavour/texture of the salad. Waxy potatoes will remain too prominent in the salad. My mom typically peels all of them, but I tried peeling all except one and the recipe remained equally delicious. *Pineapples: a small sweet tomato can be used as well. I didn't have any pineapples on hand on time and decided on a whim to put in a small grapevine tomato. It ended up giving a light sweet acidity that matched well with the salad. *Mayonnaise: a light mayonnaise can also be used. I grew up having Hellman's, and after trying the recipe with the regular mayonnaise available in France, it just didn't taste the same. Having said this, the recipe tastes just as good with a lighter mayonnaise.
Tuesday, April 3. 2012
Taiwanese cuisine is quite eclectic with influences from all over China, especially from the Fujian province and Hakka people. Japanese is equally prominent as Taiwan was under Japanese colonial rule for 50 years. One line of traditional Taiwanese cuisine is marked by a dark flavourful sauce/broth which can be a bit overwhelming on the palate at times, but the punch in flavour makes accompanying rice and noodles perfect. Pork stew is one such dish and certainly a go-to dish for many home cooks (like most stews) as it is cooked in a single pot, can be stored for many days, and can be used in multiple ways. Recently, completely under severe attack by the myriad pollens in the area, I thought of my mom's pork stew. It is essentially pork, carrots, and, at times, hard-boiled eggs, but the rich salty, sweetness (especially the carrots) beckoned (probably because it'd match wonderfully with the light vegetable soup that I was having). It was never one of my all-time favourites, but I loved indulging in the rich sauce over the plain rice, and, of course, plucking out the salty, sweet, and extremely soft carrots. Please don't be mistaken though, salty and sweet do not mark the whole dish; the soy sauce and pork contribute significantly to the flavour of the stew. My mom's recipe begins with ginger, garlic, and green onion (the "mirepoix" of Chinese cooking), which provides a stronger edge in the resulting flavour. She also uses pork belly as the fat preserves the moisture of the meat as well as instills richness to the stew. I've developed a slight variation by eliminating the ginger, garlic, and green onion to provide a milder, more rounded flavour, as well as adding tomato to increase the natural sweetness. As pork belly is too fatty for my liking, I opted for the meaty part of pork ribs, which still contains some fat distributed within the meat as well as around, but much less. Some fat is crucial to the stew, but one can always trim off the majority before stewing, and then skimming the solidified fat after stewing and refrigerating. Regardless of the version, the pork stew goes wonderfully with rice, noodles, or anything plain.
Taiwanese Pork Stew (Mom's style)
- 1-2 slices ginger
- 1 stalk of green onion (lower half only, cut into 2-3 segments)
- 1-2 cloves garlic (whole or roughly sliced)
- 400g pork meat (diced into even chunks)
- 2 tbsp soya sauce (can be altered to taste*)
- 2 tsp brown sugar (can be altered to taste)
- Beer (or water)
- 2-3 stalks of carrots (de-skinned and evenly diced)
- Heat oil (medium high) and add the ginger, green onion, and garlic. Sauté until golden. Remove pot from heat and add the soya sauce and brown sugar. Roughly stir to mix the the soya sauce and sugar. Add the pork meat chunks and return pot to heat source.
- Leave meat untouched for 3-5 minutes to allow for browning. The pot can be gently covered to contain some of the oil splatters. Rotate the meat to continue browning. Repeat the process for 10-15 minutes. (Full browning is not required, but some caramelisation of the meat surface as well as the brown sugar is critical to the stew flavour. Just make sure not to burn either the meat or the sugar.)
- Add enough beer (or water) to barely cover the meat. Bring to a simmer and reduce heat (to maintain a slight slimmer).
- Add the diced carrots and cover pot with a slight gap. Simmer for at least 1-1.5 hrs.
- Refrigerate at least overnight to enhance flavour.
My variation
- 1 whole medium tomato (even sliced)
- 400g pork meat (diced into even chunks)
- 2 tbsp soya sauce (can be altered to taste*)
- 2 tsp brown sugar (can be altered to taste)
- Water
- 2-3 stalks of carrots (de-skinned and evenly diced)
- Heat oil (medium high) and add the pork meat chunks to brown. Add the soya sauce and sugar. Leave untouched for 3-5 minutes, or until one side is browned. The pot can be gently covered to contain some of the oil splatters.
- Rotate the meat to continue browning. Repeat the process for 10-15
minutes. (Full browning is not required, but some caramelisation of the
meat surface as well as the sugar is critical to the stew
flavour. Just make sure not to burn either the meat or the sugar.).
- Add enough water to barely cover the meat. Add the tomatoes and carrots. Bring to a simmer and reduce heat (to maintain a slight slimmer). Simmer for at least 1-1.5 hrs.
- Refrigerate at least overnight to enhance flavour.
*Note: 2 tbsp soya sauce will result in a stew that's on the salty side. It is meant to be eaten with something plain, rather than alone. The amount can be reduced, but only slightly. Too little (i.e. less than 1 tbsp) results in a less full-bodied stew flavour. -Variation: Eggs, pre-boiled and de-shelled, can be added to the stew as well. The egg whites absorb the stew flavour, which makes for a nice change to the usual hard-boiled eggs. They can be eaten as is, with rice or noodles, or even in sandwiches.
Thursday, March 29. 2012
Hello, dear Readers. Sorry for the rather long absence. I have not forgotten about you. I've just had a severe lack of inspiration. But I return to you with a soup that comes back to beckon me every once in a while. It was a soup that my parents cooked in my childhood, and it somehow lovingly locked into my brain. It's a simple recipe, and I remember my dad one day opening the pot to let me peek into it and smell the lovely aroma before telling me how to cook it. We stopped cooking it later in the years, but I would occasionally query my parents, either out of the blue or when I suddenly see the huge pot that was specifically used for it. Somehow, we just never got around to cooking it again. Many many years later, nursing a cold, I suddenly craved soup with large chunks of vegetable in it. All the soups in France seem to be pureed one way or another. This soup was what came to mind, and after so many years, I buckled down and cooked it. Soups really are so easy, yet it can always take an effort to drive one to make it. As for the name, directly translated from Chinese, it is indeed called "Russian Soup". I hope you'll find it as warming, spiritually and physically, as I.
Chinese "Russian" Vegetable Soup (Serves 2)
- 100-200g ox or veal tail bone
- 1 small onion
- 2 round tomatoes
- 2 carrots
- 3 stalks of celery
- optional potatoes
- optional corn (I forgot!)
- water or stock
- Evenly dice or chop all the vegetables.
- The tail bones can be browned before cooking to bring out more flavour. Otherwise, I just put them in a large pot of water and bring to a simmer.
- Add all the vegetables with a dash of ground pepper.
- Simmer for at least 1.5-2 hours. (I only stewed mine for 1 hour, and the flavour wasn't as rich as possible nor were the tail bone meat falling-off-tender.)
- Add salt to taste.
Thursday, November 17. 2011

Several years have passed since I last celebrated Thanksgiving in the US. I remember that first, and last, Thanksgiving meal (before I left to study abroad) when I contributed rather substantially: an appetiser, the turkey, and a dessert. Simplicity had not yet developed; instead, I was at the complex phase, where dishes looked fancy, flavours were complex, textures contrasted, and meat had to taste good by itself (i.e. the marinade would fully infuse into the meat). The starter was romaine salad coated with roast chicken balsamic dressing and stuffed in a cornucopia-shaped croissant. The turkey was brined overnight and rubbed with herbs on the outside, under the skin, and at random knife-inserted points. The dessert was a restaurant-inspired sweet potato casserole studded with walnuts and topped with brown sugar crumble and a layer of marshmallows. So much effort was spent perfecting the starter (whose appearance and taste wooed) and turkey (which tasted tender, moist, and wonderfully herbaceous) that I overlooked my requested sweet potato casserole from the previous year: I boiled the sweet potatoes instead of steaming them, resulting in a casserole swimming atop a pool of water. It was unfortunate, but I could at least relish in my successful turkey. Thanksgiving was celebrated over the internet the following year. The extensive display of delicious food was transmitted through the video camera and the excited chatters of friends and family floated across the digital sea. It was certainly nostalgic, but I was happy enough to share in the festivities despite the distance. The holiday grew farther and farther distant with each year as it was always the family holiday that I could never make, but rather the one that ushered my annual return for Christmas and New Year's Day. I remained unexpectedly abroad, and having just married a non-American, I was inspired to share the holiday with him. The meal was very small and simple but included the essential components: a roast turkey leg, a small side of stuffing, a tiny serving of cranberry sauce, and a mini sweet potato pie---all for just the two of us. It certainly could not compare to that first, and last, Thanksgiving meal, but I at least managed to convert a turkey-avoider into a turkey-appreciator. This year, the American colleagues at my husband's workplace organised a Thanksgiving lunch, and I offered to contribute green beans as a side. I opted for a lighter version, rather than a casserole, and settled on a recipe from Cooks Illustrated. It was extremely simple to make. Roasting the green beans eliminated the herbaceous bite and brought out the milder sweeter tones; and the imperceptible maple syrup rounded out that sweetness while the mustard gave the extra kick. A nutty breadcrumb topping (inspired from other recipes) offered a textural contrast. It was certainly a dish that could be served more regularly!
Green Beans with Nutty Breadcrumb Topping (adapted from Cooks Illustrated), Serves 4 Green beans:
- 500 g green beans
- 1 carrot, julienned
- 2 tsp maple syrup
- 1 tsp honey
- 2 tsp whole grain mustard
- oil, salt, pepper
Crumble topping:
- 2 tsp vegetable oil spread, or butter
- 2 tsp ground almond
- 2 tsp ground hazelnut
- 2 tbsp bread crumbs, homemade
- 2 tsp brown sugar
- Preheat oven to 200°C (400°F).
- Lightly coat green beans and carrots with oil, salt, and pepper and place in a preferably large oven rack so that the vegetables can be spread out. Place rack in the center of oven and roast for 10 minutes.
- Combine maple syrup, honey, and mustard. Remove beans from oven and toss with maple syrup, honey, and mustard mixture. Return to oven and continue to roast for another 15 minutes (or until green beans have started to wilt).
- Meanwhile, heat the vegetable oil spread in a small pot. Toast the ground almond, hazelnut, and breadcrumbs, along with sugar, until golden brown. Remove from heat and allow to cool.
- Serve: Top green beans and carrots with crumble topping right before serving. Alternatively, the mixture can be toasted over the vegetables in the oven prior to service.
- Note: To simplify the dish even further, the nut breadcrumb mixture can be toasted together with the roasting vegetables by combining the mixture beforehand and scattering it over the vegetables ~5 minutes before the vegetables finish cooking.