After a 2 week break, it was off to a conference in Belgium. Besides the usual conference proceedings, we had fairly decent food at our hotel. I was especially amazed by the conference dinner! We were treated to a beer tasting that spanned across a 4 course meal (excluding coffee and chocolates) and was served in a monastery.
The night was themed as a train ride across Belgium. My first stop was Antwerp where Paul Reuben's wife served us De Koninck. It ended up being my favorite because it carried a somewhat fuller-bodied flavor without much presence of alcohol; it almost resembled an ale. My next stop was Leuven where we were served Stella Artois by Sebastien Artois himself, the master brewer the beer was named after. As this was a lager, I wasn't particularly fond of it. Third was Brussels with the peculiar Oude Gueuze that was nicknamed "Brussels Champagne." The beer was created by mixing a young and an old lambic beer and allowed to ferment a second time. As the yeast must remain alive for the fermentation, the beer was not pasteurised. The resulting flavor was sour and fruity which I found resembled grapefruit--sour and bitter. Fourth was Floreffe with the famous Trappiste, a high alcohol content (ranging from 9-13%) beer brewed in the monastery. It had the full-bodied flavor of an ale but with a stronger alcoholic taste and a pinch of sweetness. Last was Oostende (can't completely recall beer name...Rodenbacher??) with a beer that tasted sour and sweet, almost like lemonade to many people. We were also given a piece of chocolate at each station with some relation to the location. Antwerp had the hand, Leuven a printed university student, Brussels a strawberry marzipan, Floreffe a flower bud, and Oostende a praline seashell.
But amazingly, alcohol did not stop at the beers as we were served champagne, white wine, and red wine with the various courses!
The food itself was very delicately prepared with subtle and intricately balanced flavors. The starters resembled finger foods that were ingeniously served in soup spoons, except for a soup that was served in a shot glass. The first collection had foie gras, ardennes pâté, and salmon. I had the pâté, which was served as a ball rolled in sesame seeds and flavored with Belgian beer; light, smooth, and gentle, there was practically no indication of the characteristic pâté flavor. The second had risotto, chicory clam soup, and a salmon sandwich; I went for the soup, which tasted like a light chowder. The second course was fish cooked en papillote with white wine, onions, bacon, and sun-dried tomatoes. I was quite amused at the clear plastic they used rather than parchment or aluminium; definitely more aesthetically pleasing, but safety??? The main was roast beef served over thin slices of apple topped with a sweet tangy sauce; accompanying were a fried mashed potato, mashed celeriac, and endive. The mashed celeriac was amazingly creamy, buttery, and smooth. For dessert, we had lavender-flavored panna cotta with an orange jelly base and ice cream.
Overall, the meal was incredibly delicious and fantastic. This is exactly how I hope to cook! Delicately and intricately with flavors that melt together and create harmony in the mouth; where cooking becomes an art in everything from the texture to flavor to presentation.
Wednesday, October 24. 2007
Belgium Conference Dinner
Friday, October 12. 2007
En Papillote
Wow! With only a week of pre-holiday preparation stress, a blissful two week trip home, and a week of new school year chaos, a month has already passed since my previous entry. I guess it's about time I posted about a dish I made back home.
For part of my trip home, I visited Pittsburgh, where my brother was studying, for a few days. We'd just arrived that afternoon after a 3.5 hour drive, and I was unexpectedly making dinner for 5 people that night. [*sighs*] What a loving brother have I...
Okay, I'm teasing. I actually offered to cook after going through a list of unfavourable options. And it gave me a chance to try a very "quick and easy" technique called "en papillote."
Working mainly with supplies on hand, I started with a piece of parchment paper and placed a layer of chopped vegetables (carrots, onions, potatoes) and dried cranberries (for sweetness). Above came the chicken breast which I'd rubbed with a hodgepodge mixture of olive oil, balsamic vinegar, lemon juice, various herbs, salt, and pepper (I also made slits in the meat and filled them with the mixture for better flavor penetration). I tucked a couple wedges of lemon under the chicken and drizzled a little more olive oil before wrapping and sealing the parchment paper tightly. Twenty minutes at 425°F (218°C), and each of us was peering into a steaming hot package of mouth-watering chicken and vegetables.
Basically, ''en papillote ''is a form of steam cooking and is ideal for leaner cuts of meat (i.e. chicken breast, fish). Any type of vegetable, fruit, or even rice can be mixed in. A key ingredient is oil; with that, you are free to use whatever sauce, herb, or spice you desire. Although parchment paper is preferred, aluminum foil can also be used. It's because of such freedom and relatively short cooking time that makes ''en papillote'' so friendly. Plus, cleaning is easy!
Sunday, October 7. 2007
Chocolates of Belgium
Mention Belgium, and chocolates pretty much always first come to mind. Now I LOVE Belgian chocolate, but I was too naive when I submitted myself to finding the best chocolate in Belgium for my family. In the course of ~3 days and 5 cities, I walked into more than 30 chocolate shops, ate nearly a kilo of chocolate, and spent more money on an ephemeral luxury than I would have liked. That's not counting the time and calories wasted. Why the spite? Because sadly, none amazed me...
The most famous brands were Pierre Marcolini, Wittamer, Neuhaus, Godiva, and Leonidas. I automatically skipped Godiva because it was all over the States, and I already wasn't a big fan of it; but, this may have been a mistake when I encountered this article AFTER I returned... As with many chocolates that cross continents, they were manufactured locally and tended to be tailored to the local tastes; and this was the case with Godiva.
Regardless, my skepticism for big brand names was further confirmed when a gourmand friend "unrecommended" all 5. Still, I didn't know how daunting (and probably hopeless) my challenge was until I arrived in Belgium. Chocolate shops were everywhere. The worst was Brussels, where nearly every street in the city centre had one; and where there was one, there were bound to be 2. One street block had 6, composing ~1/3 of the shops!! I even noticed 2 distinct classes of shops: the higher ones either sold their own chocolates or carried ones like Cafe Tasse, New Tree, and at times Guylian and a few Cotê d'Or; the lower ones were filled with Cotê d'Or, Cupido, and praline seashell mimics. Sadly, most of the lower class shops were very stereotypically operated by Asians...
So how did I approach this task? First, eliminate all concept of money. Second, be prepared to eat LOTS of chocolate; so much, it becomes your main source of daily nutrition. Third, assess the appearance. Fourth, consider its globalisation. Fifth, buy varying types. Sixth (and finally), try it.
Truthfully, as much as I didn't want to consider the big brands, there were just too many local ones. But enough said; here were my assessments:
- Dumon (located only in Bruges and highly recommended by guides): The textural contrast between the shell and filling was too big; the flavor did not compensate. There were some interesting flavors (lavender, jasmin, chili lemon, etc), and the ganach filling was the solid type rather than the semi-translucent creamy type that I tend to associate with lower grade chocolate.
- Planète Chocolat (located in Brussels and offers a tour + tasting every Sat at 4pm): Same texture and flavor problem. Worse, it was the semi-translucent creamy filling with most chocolates dissipating into a sugary confection
- Chocopolis(Brussels): Same texture and flavor problem; better than Planète Chocolat; flavor a bit light; nothing particularly special
- Leonidas: If the mint chocolate sample was representative of the rest, then it failed quite miserably as the basic shell chocolate tasted of high sugar content rather than cacao solids.
- Wittamer (also sells decadent-looking desserts and pastries): More intricate and delicate in appearance, but still similar texture and flavor problem. I even found some with the semi-translucent filling. There were some interesting flavors, but some were too light (cannelle) while others were overpowering (sencha).
- Pierre Marcolini (also sells limited fancy desserts with an extremely high class storefront): Very intricate and delicate in appearance. Again, texture and flavor problem. BUT, the flavor was much more pronounced, although not enough to compensate the textural contrast. Still, they win for flavor.
- Neuhaus: If their Noix Doble represented all their pralines, it wins for the texture and flavor complement. The shell had the characteristic pronounced crunch, but it was somewhat mellowed by the thickness of the shell and cruchiness of nuts in the filling. The caramelisation of the nuts enhanced the nutty flavor that matched the textural contrast. Plus, the extra layer of shell chocolate in the middle masked the semi-soft ganache. The Criollo from the ganache collection had the same texture problem, while the truffle seemed a tad bit too hard.
So then, what AM I looking for? Well, after much thought, I've tentatively concluded that, for me, a filled chocolate ("bon-bon") should have a thick enough shell to mellow the sharp crunch of a thin shell, and the texture between the shell and filling and flavor needs to complement rather than emphasize the differences. For example, biting into a ganache bon-bon would first yield a low frequency and gentle "thump" before encountering a creamy smooth ganache and ending with a noticeable release of flavors. It is not the higher frequency "crunch" that disintegrates the whole shell and distinctly leads to a softer ganache with either just a hint or a sensory overload of flavor. Summed up, it's a flavor-infused chocolate versus shell + ganache + flavor...
Too high an expectation? Yes. But it's because Belgium was famous for it's chocolate that I assumed I could make such a high expectation. Even so, will I ever find one that matches my ideal bon-bon? We shall see...
Sunday, September 9. 2007
Surprisingly Moist and Crispy Scones
I think the wholemeal flour improved the scone incredibly. It prevented too much gluten from forming while the wholemeal added a nice texture. The milk and egg definitely helped with moisture. And of course, the butter was a big plus; although I'd venture to say the scones would be fine with a little less.
As I quote my friend, "It's almost a crime to put anything on it!" Seriously, it tasted so good, we were content eating it plain.
Sunday, September 2. 2007
Comparing Dairy Ingredients in Baking
How do milk, buttermilk, yogurt, and sour cream differ nutritionally?
This occurred to me as I wondering the ways of moistening scones; and this was what I found:
| Dairy Product (1 cup) |
Total Cal |
Total Fat |
Sat Fat |
Total Carb |
Sugars |
| Milk (skimmed) |
86 kcal |
0.4 g |
0.3 g |
11.9 g |
--- |
| Buttermilk (low fat, cultured) |
98 kcal |
2.2 g |
1.3 g |
11.7 g |
11.7 g |
| Yogurt (low fat, plain) |
154 kcal |
3.8 g |
2.5 g |
17.2 g |
17.2 g |
| Sour cream (reduced fat) |
327 kcal |
29.0 g |
18.1 g |
10.3 g |
0.4 g |
I've always had the impression that buttermilk was high in fat until I saw a blurb from the Food Network. Buttermilk was originally the remnants of churned butter and often had extraneous pieces of butter. Nowadays, it is made from adding lactic acid to skimmed milk and allowed to ferment. Clearly, it's not as "unhealthy" as the name suggests.
I first targeted yogurt for it's fruit-infused flavors and consistency. For recipes that suggested sour cream, I preferred yogurt because of it's better nutritional value. My impression of buttermilk was restricted to neutralizing baking soda and the misconception of it's nutritional value. But with my new discovery comes the next question: what's the difference between using buttermilk and yogurt??
Yogurt's thicker consistency is deceiving since heat will make it just as liquidy. Using strained fresh fruit means I can use plain yogurt, which is lower in calorie and sugar. Both contain cultured bacteria. Summed up, yogurt and buttermilk are nearly the same, although buttermilk wins out in it's nutritional value. Furthermore, thanks to baking911.com, I find that buttermilk results in a less dense and finer texture when compared to yogurt.
I think I've found a new friend; now comes the bonding...

